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What size power station do I need?

Pick what must keep running and for how long. The power station finder works out the battery size you need and shows models that pass output and surge checks.

A portable power station on a kitchen floor keeping the fridge and a lamp running while the street outside is dark and rainy
Illustration

Quick answer

To work out what size portable power station you need, check two things. Capacity in watt-hours must cover the energy your appliances use during the outage, plus losses, and output in watts must cover everything running at once and the biggest start-up surge. A load averaging 200 W for 12 hours uses 2,400 Wh, so it needs about 2,670 to 3,000 Wh of rated capacity.

Power station finder

Find the power station that fits your home

Describe your home in a sentence, or pick a starting point and adjust it. The models that fit update as you go, with how long each one would last.

Quickest way

Describe your home

Try one

Read by JEV, a decision model from TypeSafe AI. It only picks from our appliance list, and every number comes from our sourced data. Leave out names, addresses and other personal details.

Start with
How long is the outage?
What must keep running

Watts are an average. Hours per day is how long each one runs, not how long it is plugged in.

Your plan

Pick a starting point to see matching power stations.

Assumes 80 to 90% of rated battery capacity reaches your appliances. No solar or recharging counted. How we calculate

How it calculates

The finder starts from a preset list, such as fridge, Wi-Fi and lights, which you can edit: change the quantity, watts or hours per day of any item, add appliances from the list or your own, and pick how long the outage lasts, from 1 day to 1 week. It then works through four steps.

  1. Energy you need: for each appliance, watts × hours of use per day × quantity, added up and multiplied by the number of days.
  2. Battery size: that energy ÷ efficiency. We assume 80% to 90% of rated capacity reaches AC appliances, so the result is a range: energy ÷ 0.90 at the low end and energy ÷ 0.80 at the high end.
  3. Output: the running watts of everything on the list, added together, which must stay under a station's continuous rating.
  4. Start-up: the largest start-up draw on the list, which must stay under a station's stated surge rating. If an appliance on the list needs 240 V, the station must supply it.

Models from our database that pass the output and start-up checks appear as cards, smallest first, in three groups: those that cover the whole range on one charge, those that come close, and those that reach it with an expansion battery. Each card shows roughly how long that model would last on your list. A note at the end explains why the other models aren't shown. The finder counts no solar or recharging during the outage.

Worked example

A load averaging 200 W for 12 hours:

  • Energy: 200 × 12 = 2,400 Wh
  • Low end: 2,400 ÷ 0.90 = 2,667 Wh
  • High end: 2,400 ÷ 0.80 = 3,000 Wh

Under these assumptions, a station rated at 3,000 Wh or more covers it. A station between 2,667 and 3,000 Wh is borderline, and the finder groups it as close, so plan to recharge or trim the load.

Tips for an accurate result

  • Enter hours of use, not hours plugged in. A light used for 5 hours a day counts as 5, even in a 24-hour outage.
  • For a fridge or freezer, enter the average watts and 24 hours. Picking it from the list fills in our average.
  • For a CPAP, use the hours you sleep, and check whether you'll use the heated humidifier.
  • Leave a margin for appliances that draw more than their label, and check the operating temperature range in the station's manual if it will sit in a cold room or garage.

Questions readers ask

How do I find my appliances' watts?

Check the label or manual for watts, or multiply amps by volts for a rough figure. For cycling appliances such as a fridge, a plug-in power meter gives the best number.

What if no single model is big enough?

Split the load, run appliances in turns, look at a model that takes expansion batteries, or plan to recharge during the outage.

Do I need 240 V?

Only for appliances that use 240 V, such as some well pumps. Most plug-in household appliances use 120 V.

Why is a model listed as "close"?

The finder shows these models as "Close: plan to recharge." Their capacity sits between our low and high estimates, so they may cover your need, but plan a way to recharge or trim the load.